Is zero zero the next big thing for wine?
NOLO ... Zero Zero ... is it the next big thing?
Whatever about low-alcohol, which I feel falls between two stools (if lower alcohol were a thing, then surely Mosel Riesling Kabinett or Spätlese, which are naturally low in alcohol, would finally have their day?), there is definitely an argument for embracing the growing trend in de-alcoholised wines. Over the last few years, January saw the major supermarkets line a few shelves with zero zero wine and beer, perhaps even stacked alongside some vegan ready meals, for the post-Christmas health rush. However, in recent years, the sector now has a permanent posting in most stores and has seen double digit growth (albeit from a low baseline).
What’s interesting is that the non-alcoholic wine offerings are no longer presented as a cheap after-thought - there are now many premium, beautifully packaged products, some even made from organic grapes, proudly offering an alcohol-free alternative. What started with beer, is now also firmly ensconced in the wine drinking category.
I've been exploring some of the 0.0% wine offerings in recent weeks in an effort to understand the growth in this category and its continued upward trend. There has been a notable move towards premiumisation in the NOLO arena and I found most of the wines to be drinkable, some surprisingly so.
My insights, as related to wine consumers, are as follows:
⭐ The non-alcoholic wine category is leaning towards wine drinkers who are trying to moderate or reduce their intake, rather than teetotallers.
⭐ The argument of "why bother, just drink sparkling water" is countered by the lack of an experience from the latter. It’s not always the alcohol that the brain is craving, it may just need the dopamine hit of the relaxation trigger - uncorking a wine, pouring it into a wine glass and sipping on it can deliver this experience, while leaving the alcohol until the weekend. Although I admittedly felt the lack of the intellectual experience that I seek in wine, it's' true that the mid-week restraint delivered a smug, feel-good factor too.
⭐ Low price does not seem to be a key consideration (given the sub-€10 price point of many alcoholic wines on promotion in supermarkets). Despite zero duty, many of the non-alcoholic wines are not cheap and cheerful - there has been a steady focus on premiumisation in the offering. Most have brilliant and classy packaging, particularly the sparkling wines, and there are several organic 0.0 wines that are leaning towards the "everything but the alcohol" message. It seems consumers are willing to trade up for the best experience to deliver that hit of dopamine.
⭐ Having said that, zero zero wines do not strike me as a product for the wine lover or connoisseur, as it's impossible to assess them without looking for what's missing or why they're never as good as the real thing. However, the wine-educated or truly knowledgeable consumer is few and far between - most would claim to "know what I like". For the majority who buy a certain style of big-flavoured wines the taste profile won't be all that different, in that it's "winey" and will fill that mid-week gap to deliver a wine experience.
The wine industry will not serve itself by staying in its bubble, insisting we know best and that the consumer will soon realise the error of their ways. Wine consumption is in decline globally, and if the industry refuses to engage with consumer trends, we will bear witness to further decline. NOLO will have its own hall at ProWein, as it did at Wine Paris recently and it would seem to me that there is an opportunity for brands to encourage drinking less often, but choosing better wine when you are choosing alcohol. We can embrace the move to get healthier, and promote the love of wine into a culture of occasion, food, bonding and connection.
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